Roee Kalinsky's RV-7A Project

Cowling
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Cowling

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2009.06.27: (0.0) I'm not really working on the cowl itself yet, but this is a convenient time to start thinking about the cowling attachment method.  Van's standard method uses piano hinges to secure the cowling halves to the fuselage and to each other.  This approach is clean and simple in principle, but has been plagued by some common problems in the field.  Firstly, the joint along the top is both heavily curved, and moderately conical.  To make this work at all, builders generally have to 1) file down the hinge eyelets, and 2) use an undersized hinge pin.  This tends to make for a loose and sloppy fit.  Secondly, the joint along the bottom has a tendency to crack and lose hinge eyelets over time.  And thirdly, the builder has to make provisions for accessing as well as securing all the hinge pins, which tends to get a bit messy.

Given these problems, many builders have opted for either screws and nut plates, or quarter-turn fasteners ("camloc") to secure the cowling instead of hinges.  In particular, two companies, MilSpec and SkyBolt, produce quarter-turn fastener kits for RV cowlings that have become quite popular.  I will likely end up going with one of these options.

While I'm not committing to any of these yet, I went ahead and created the flanges at the firewall that would be used for any of these systems.  My flanges are made of 2024-T3 0.040" alclad, and for now they extend about 2.5 inches forward of the fuselage skin.  They will ultimately get trimmed to approx 1.5 inches, and possibly scalloped between fasteners as needed (hopefully not).  I was careful when fitting these to make them parallel to the fuselage skins as best I could.  For the top flange, this meant I actually had to trim a slight curve to its aft edge to accomodate the conical contour.  (Most builders end up scalloping the top flange and bending the individual tabs, I suspect because they neglected to match the conical contour when originally fitting the flange to the fuselage.  My hope is to avoid this.)

(Photo note: Ignore the holes drilled along the forward edge of the top and left side flanges.  These were unsatisfactory first attempts, so I turned the flanges around and re-did it to my satisfaction.  About an inch will get trimmed away from the forward edges anyway, which includes those holes.)

Note that Van's shows some 0.020" shims between the firewall flanges and the hinges (which in my case would be these flanges) to match the thickness of the fiberglass cowl.  But measuring it myself, I think I'll actually have a closer match without these shims.  And anyhow I'd rather err on the side of having the fiberglass cowl protrude beyond the fuselage skin rather than the other way around, for lower drag.


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Copyright © 2003 Roee Kalinsky
Last modified: June 28, 2009

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